Exploring how flavor chemists, or “flavorists,” discover what a Galaxy tastes like.

In 2017, Starbucks released the Unicorn Frappuccino for four days only. This swirled, color-changing concoction of purple and blue Lisa Frank hues came on the heels of a wave of social-media food hype for all things “unicorn”: cakes, drinks, and even bagels dyed improbable pastels and often sprinkled with edible glitter.

But what did this “unicorn” drink taste like? I missed the trend entirely somehow, but internet commentary from 2017 reveals that people were mixed on what it could be. Was it raspberry? Cotton candy? Creamsicle? Opinions abounded, but baristas weighed in to note that the main flavor was actually mango, along with brightly colored, tangy powder mixed together with white chocolate drizzle. “Tangy” is a bit of an understatement. The Washington Post said that the drinks tasted “like sour birthday cake and shame.”

Imbibe flavorist, John Heller, discovers what a Galaxy tastes like.

If you’ve never heard of the term flavorist, that’s not surprising to him. “I actually didn’t know that the flavor industry really even existed until I started working in it,” Heller says. With a degree in chemical engineering, he decided to go into the consumer products industry, unlike many of his classmates. “Most people went into the petroleum industry,” he says. “I didn’t want to end up on an oil rig in the Gulf of Mexico.”

There are only a few hundred certified flavorists, or flavor chemists, in the United States. Becoming one is a grueling process, requiring a seven-year apprenticeship on the job, under the supervision of another certified flavor chemist. Certification involves the ability to identify different chemicals based on smell and taste, knowledge of food regulations around the world, and expertise with specialized equipment. Despite all that, says Heller, “it’s a fun job.”

For the full article and more food and beverage insights, check out Atlas Obscura.

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